Killimanjaro. The name itself is a mystery wreathed in clouds. It might mean Mountain of Light, Mountain of Greatness or Mountain of Caravans. Or it might not. The local people, the Wachagga, don't even have a name for the whole massif, only Kipoo (now known as Kibo) for the familiar snowy peak that stands imperious, overseer of the continent, the summit of Africa.
Kilimanjaro, by any name, is a metaphor for the compelling beauty of East Africa. When you see it, you understand why. Not only is this the highest peak on the African continent; it is also the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, rising in breathtaking isolation from the surrounding coastal scrubland – elevation around 900 metres – to an imperious 5,895 metres (19,336 feet).
Before we set off on the morning we were going to see the mountain for the first time, I asked our cirrent driver, mat, if, when he saw the mountain, he would stop so that we could take photographs. "In all my years of driving I have never see the mountain. It is always covered in cloud. So there is not much chance of us stopping!", he said. Oh well...
And then, as we reached a weigh station near the turn off to Moshe, and had to stop to weigh the truck, there, peeping through the clouds, was the mountain! I saw Killi and my heart jumped! Magnificent. Awesome. Overwhelmingly beautiful and majestic!
I will most certainly not be climbing this mountain, but just recently a good friend's daughter, Nikki Moffit, did. Please do go read about this brave venture on her blog -- she writes beautifully and I cannot think of a better way to learn more about climbing this impressive mountain!
Kilimanjaro is one of the world's most accessible high summits, a beacon for visitors from around the world. Most climbers reach the crater rim with little more than a walking stick, proper clothing and determination. And those who reach Uhuru Point, the actual summit, or Gillman's Point on the lip of the crater, will have earned their climbing certificates.
And their memories.
But there is so much more to Kili than her summit. The ascent of the slopes is a virtual climatic world tour, from the tropics to the Arctic.
Even before you cross the national park boundary (at the 2,700m contour), the cultivated footslopes give way to lush montane forest, inhabited by elusive elephant, leopard, buffalo, the endangered Abbot’s duiker, and other small antelope and primates. Higher still lies the moorland zone, where a cover of giant heather is studded with otherworldly giant lobelias. Above 4,000m, a surreal alpine desert supports little life other than a few hardy mosses and lichen. Then, finally, the last vestigial vegetation gives way to a winter wonderland of ice and snow – and the magnificent beauty of the roof of the continent.
A couple of days later, when we left Arusha to head for the Kenyan border, Mat did stop though, for there, in all its glorious splendour, Mount Kilimanjaro had once again shaken off its cloud blanket and stood there proudly, dominating the entire world around us. Breathtaking. Literally breathtaking. -- And thank you Mat for stopping and allowing us to drink in this sight. It is most certainly one that I will never forget!
About Kilimanjaro National Park
Size: 1668 sq km 641 sq miles).
Location: Northern Tanzania, near the town of Moshi.
Getting there
128 km (80 miles) from Arusha.
About one hour’s drive from Kilimanjaro airport.
What to do
Six usual trekking routes to the summit and other more-demanding mountaineering routes.
Day or overnight hikes on the Shira plateau. Nature trails on the lower reaches.
Trout fishing.
Visit the beautiful Chala crater lake on the mountain’s southeastern slopes.
When to go
Clearest and warmest conditions from December to February, but also dry (and colder) from July-September.
Accommodation
Huts and campsites on the mountain.
Several hotels and campsites outside the park in the village of Marangu and town of Moshi.
***photographs will be posted later!
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