Quick note from Midelt, Morocco

Here we are in the Midelt -- sort of easy name to remember as it is about in the middle of the desert between the Middle Atlas mountains and the High Atlas mountains -- breathtaking scenery as we drive through the arid desert with snow covered mountains behind us and this awesome snow covered range in front of us.

We left Fes yesterday and immediately started the climb int the higher regions, feeling the temperatures drop as we go higher and higher into the mountains. We stopped in Ifran for lunch and it was a fabulous moment as Orm, a young Australian lad -- a miner in Roxbury Downs; South Australia, saw snow for the first time! I little after Ifran, Suzanne from Canada wanted to stop for a snow ball fight alongside the road, but as it got colder and colder - and colder, that idea faded away with whatever sunlight was left in the sky. Everyone agreed that the freezing wind last night made it the coldest night yet and Ben and Kyle passed around rocks that had been warmed in the fire to keep our laps and other parts warm as we sat huddled around the fire with our backs to the howling wind. The wind even cooled down the fire -- believe me! -- it was Emy and my cooking turn last night and the custard we wanted to make for Emy,s delicious bread and butter pudding took over an hour to come to the boil and thicken! The end result was absolutely delicious -- whether it was because of the long wait or the welcome warm food long after the dinner dishes had been washed in the freezing cold greasy water, is immaterial; Mark licked out the pot and missed his mother;s baking days, Jescoe passed around his aqua vit and proclaimed the virtues of the water of life, Suzanne and Elissa cuddled under their Finland blue blanket and warmed the circle with their stories and laughter, and Ben;s warm rocks did wonders with frozen body parts. It was a magical evening.

And this morning we woke up to the most beautiful view of the High Atlas mountains in the distance. This must be the most stunning scenery (let;s count how many times I get to say that!...)

Quick note on Ifran: Here, in the middle of the Middle Atlas, is this town -- almost Disneyworld-esque in its pristine, immaculate layout and design -- a clone of any poshe expensive ski resort anywhere in Europe -- or in particular, Switzerland. The chalet like buildings, the grey stone; the cobble stone streets; the parks and trees and sculptures -- even the storks click-clicking in their nests on the roof tops. We could have been anywhere in Switzerland - or anywhere other than Morocco! The cafe;s are all called Cafe de la Paix, Cafe le Chamonix, the pastries are eclairs and Napoleons, the drinks are chocolat chaud and Perrier -- and no people!! Where are all the people? I know it is a ski resort, but surely the town does have some permanent residents? ---- sooooooooo not Morocco! At the entrance of Ifran was a complex which turned out the be the Al Akhawayn university -- all chalet buildings plus a large concrete and stone building that could have been a Le Corbusier -- it is amazing! Apparently it is a semi-private university which is very expensive to attend as well as very hard to get in to. There are four faculties: Science, Information Technology, Commerce and Finance and some time soon there will also be a Medical faculty. This entire town of Ifran was such an incongruity...