Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Gorges and mountains, hairpin bends and mind-blowing scenery



Marrakesh, 29 March 2011

Wow! Spectacular! That is the word that sums up the past few days.

I had no idea just how spectacularly diverse and beautiful this country is. It is without a doubt worth a vist to Morocco just to do the trip we have done over the past couple of days:

Starting with a visit to Toudgha (Todra) Gorge – magnificently grand and overwhelmingly beautiful, the red rock formations soaring a hundred metres above the deep shadowy gorge where we all slept on the rooftop of a backpackers' refuge, with the stars of the northern hemishphere forming a sparkling canopy over our heads. Suffice to mention that a red button found a resting spot in this stunning scenery.

Then on to Dades Gorge – again breathtakingly beautiful. I am afraid I am gushing here, but the scenery is simply incredibly impressive and even my store of hyperbolic adjectives cannot begin to do justice to this countryside.

From there we went to spend an afternoon wandering in the 13th century casbah at Ait Benhaddou – like everything around here, built in red mud and straw and stones – which has been used as a set for over 30 films, the most notable probably The Gladiator. (The gladiator arena has been demolished though – a disappointment, but apparently the major set buildings for individual films are demolished after the filming is done, and only the original casbah remains behind. ) Lawrence of Arabia (yes, so now the youngsters in my group at least know the name!), The Jewel of the Nile and The Prince of Persia were all filmed here. It is very impressive, and thankfully UNESCO stepped in recently and gave money for the construction of stairs and soon the installation of running water and electricity so that the 100 original families that inhabited the casbah will come back to live there permanently. At the moment only ten families live there – the rest run their little shops in the casbah but live on the other side of the river where modern conveniences are available.

We then camped out for the night at the foot of the first foothills of the High Atlas, and yesterday morning we crossed the High Atlas Mountains to come to Marrakesh – over the Col Tichka – at 2260 metres, a hairraising experience manoeuvering around the tight hairpin bends, climbing, climbing, climbing up the one side, then descending down the other into a deep gorge where a river provides greenery and blossom trees, then again up another steep steep climb, ancient cedar trees bonazai'ed into distorted and wrangled forms where they grow on seemingly sheer rock against the stark mountain face. Three times we climbed up and three times we came down and each time the scenery completely changed – the colours, the plant growth, the atmosphere – like three completely different mountain passes – and the one more beautiful than the next. Every one of us sat transfixed, gazing out and taking photographs, silent in our stunned admiration of this magnificent nature.

As I said so eloquently – Wow! Spectacular!

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