Last Sunday, with trepidation, I re-joined the group -- now 21 strong! -at the Amadwala Lodge in Johannesburg. A new truck, a new group -- with six lovely young Germans having joined us, two Britons and two Canadians -- and the most delightful Karl and Mandy as our drivers/group leaders. I loved hearing all the amazing experiences the group have enjoyed since I last saw them in Kinshasa, but am quite upset also hearing about how they were harassed by locals -- in particular in Cape Town. I have never had that happen to me or any of our guests and was therefore quite surprised to hear that it is so prevalent now. --- Definitely something we will have to address... The other negative issue I believe needs to be remedied is the fact that visitors to Johannesburg still get taken on the "Soweto Tour". A ridiculously over-priced and overrated day's outing for people who have no more than 24 hours in Johannesburg! What a crying shame it is still even on offer to tourists-- without a doubt an item that is well and truly 15 years past its sell-by date. And when I think of all the amazing things they could have done and seen in that time! The city abounds with innovative and exciting events and happenings and sights. In fact, I wished I had at least a week to re-visit my old home town, there is so much going on and on offer for the visitor to Johannesburg.
But quickly back to my update -- I have upgraded to a room at the Thebe River Lodge here in Kasane, Botswana -- and I intend to enjoy the little time I have here -- not spend it all on the computer! Tomorrow morning before dawn we are going out on a game drive and time is galloping along...
From Johannesburg we drove north -- through Pretoria, through Krantzkop (-- the new road passing right under the lovely landmark so close to NumNum -- our family's own gorgeous little bit of wilderness), through all the towns and landmarks of my childhood which now bear different names but still look the same! Not far past Pretoria, however, we were pulled over by a traffic warden -- and it felt just like old times back in Mauritania and Nigeria and the entire West Africa where road blocks became a natural part of the journey. The reason here though was because we were supposed to have a passenger manifest, and as ours was on the laptop screen but not printed out, it entailed a R500-00 fine which had to be paid in Sinoville -- so all the way back to Pretoria to go pay the fine before we could, once again, head north.
The first night we bushcamped -- and it was like old times -- pitching tents, cooking dinner over the open fire, sitting chatting under the stars. Then on through the Kalahari -- seeing giraffe, kudu, elephant and so many little duikers on the way -- to Maun where we camped behind the Sedia Hotel, on the banks of the Thamalakane River -- a welcome oasis in the desert town.
Then the experience of a lifetime -- an hour-long journey in a makoro (a dugout made from a sausage tree to a clearing under a massive rain tree somewhere in the heart of the Okovango Delta. I will most certainly be telling much more about this Red Button Moment -- as well as about the flight we took over the Delta two days later. It was superb!
Tonight -- after a long day's drive -- we are in Kasane. Today on the road we saw so many elephant, more giraffes, more kudu -- and two wonderful sightings of sable antelope! Joy!
And tomorrow morning at 5:45 we set off on a game drive through the Chobe game reserve after which we continue on to Livingstone in Zambia -- where we will be spending a few days and from where I will fill in the details! (And hopefully where I will be able to sort out how to upload the photographs from my new camera (long story) and so post some pics for you here on the blog!
Until then -- hamba kahle!
From Johannesburg we drove north -- through Pretoria, through Krantzkop (-- the new road passing right under the lovely landmark so close to NumNum -- our family's own gorgeous little bit of wilderness), through all the towns and landmarks of my childhood which now bear different names but still look the same! Not far past Pretoria, however, we were pulled over by a traffic warden -- and it felt just like old times back in Mauritania and Nigeria and the entire West Africa where road blocks became a natural part of the journey. The reason here though was because we were supposed to have a passenger manifest, and as ours was on the laptop screen but not printed out, it entailed a R500-00 fine which had to be paid in Sinoville -- so all the way back to Pretoria to go pay the fine before we could, once again, head north.
The first night we bushcamped -- and it was like old times -- pitching tents, cooking dinner over the open fire, sitting chatting under the stars. Then on through the Kalahari -- seeing giraffe, kudu, elephant and so many little duikers on the way -- to Maun where we camped behind the Sedia Hotel, on the banks of the Thamalakane River -- a welcome oasis in the desert town.
Then the experience of a lifetime -- an hour-long journey in a makoro (a dugout made from a sausage tree to a clearing under a massive rain tree somewhere in the heart of the Okovango Delta. I will most certainly be telling much more about this Red Button Moment -- as well as about the flight we took over the Delta two days later. It was superb!
Tonight -- after a long day's drive -- we are in Kasane. Today on the road we saw so many elephant, more giraffes, more kudu -- and two wonderful sightings of sable antelope! Joy!
And tomorrow morning at 5:45 we set off on a game drive through the Chobe game reserve after which we continue on to Livingstone in Zambia -- where we will be spending a few days and from where I will fill in the details! (And hopefully where I will be able to sort out how to upload the photographs from my new camera (long story) and so post some pics for you here on the blog!
Until then -- hamba kahle!
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