A deaf perspective

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.

Explore. Dream. Discover."

- Mark Twain

In this spirit Scott & Christy came to Africa. Now look up and read the quote again, and then keep in mind that Scott and Christy are Deaf travelers.

Yes, you read it right. They are Deaf.

"We both are Deaf- with the capital D, indicating that we are culturally Deaf," says Scott. "We have been Deaf since birth," continues Christy,"and we communicate through our natural language: American Sign Language, our preferred mode of communication. Let us tell you a bit about ourselves first," she suggests.

"Scott worked with Deaf youth for the Provincial Services for the Deaf and Hard of Hearing in Vancouver, British Columbia while studying towards a degree in Child and Youth Care Counsellor at Douglas College. I taught English literacy to Deaf adults at the Deaf Academic Upgrading Program at George Brown College in Toronto, Ontario. We have been traveling throughout South Africa, Namibia and Lesotho for two months prior to our trip with African Trails. Overlanding has been an incredible experience for both of us, giving us the opportunity to travel on the road to amazing African countries at a very affordable rate."

I felt incredibly privileged to get to know Scott and Christy a little better while they were on the truck with us. Not because they are Deaf. Not because they are different. But because they are simply the nicest couple you can meet. Full of the joys of life, interested -- and interesting, eager to tackle new challenges, experience new things and discover news worlds. And yes, the fact that they are deaf, taught me, for one, so much. Having them around, one involuntarily looked at everything in a different way -- in a much more concentrated way. There were moments when I was reminded of what it was like to go for a nature walk with one of my children when they were still toddlers; everything became new, fresh, unfamiliar; everything was as if you were seeing and experiencing it for the first time -- and turned this world into a most wondrous place! In the instance of being with Scott and Christy, I looked at my surroundings in a way that I had never done before -- imagining what it was like for them not hearing any sounds -- not hearing anything. At the same time, when I had to 'translate' for them what was being said or explained, I also had to listen so much more attentively so that I could not only give them every bit of information relayed to us, but could give them the underlying meanings, the insinuated details, the whole picture.

And yet, afterwards, when Scott and Christy were asked whether they would travel in a similar way again, they categorically replied: no. I must admit I can understand that it must have been terribly hard for them. So often -- too often, I find that, unless I am in the right place at the right time -- at all times, I do not hear important information about the group's plans -- such as what time to be where, what to bring with me, and so on. So, when Christy mentions that this happened to them a lot, I can completely understand that she feels that it was due to the fact that they cannot hear. "Our main reason why we would not travel by overland again is purely due to the communication issues. We were, unintentionally, excluded in social situations that made us feel lonely and frustrated," she says. And it disturbed me when I heard this; it made me realise that every time I felt 'excluded' or behind the power curve how much more they must have experienced it. At least when I miss something I can usually quite quickly pick up that things are happening of which I know nothing. They cannot, because of they missed the original information, they would have no idea what people are referring to in case they do talk about it afterwards and in case Scott happens to be lip read right at that moment.

And speaking of lipreading; "Lipreading is not an easy task," explains Christy, "because only 30% of the English language can be read on the lips, and the rest is based on guesswork. Often we would connect the dots based on context and how well we knew the person."

To try to make communication a little easier, we did try to write -- on a white board or on paper, everything that was said and discussed, but no matter how fast one writes, you can never get everything down that is said -- not the nuances, not the subtleties, and so much is lost in translation. And, by the very nature of this exercise, the person who is writing is missing out as well on the body language, quick interaction in the group and much of the communication which is happening while he or she is busy writing and reading the response from Christy or Scott. All round an unsatisfactory situation for everyone involved.

Looking back on the time that these two lovely people spent with us, I am sure many of us cherish the memories. I can understand that they might not want to do something similar again, but am overjoyed that they are still traveling and still throwing off the bowlines, still sailing away from the safe harbor and still catching the trade winds in their sails. Explore, dream and discover, Scott and Christy, and continue on your journey knowing that you gave us an example of what one can do despite the circumstances; you most definitely served as a wonderful inspiration -- and as incentive to appreciate what we have.

At least once a day, since their departure, I remind myself to use every sense I have and to look at the world through new eyes; Proust said the only real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but having new eyes..

I

Photo credits: Scott and Christy. We saw these magnificent lions in the Ngorogoro Crater -- he was keen and she was playing coy and the scene was one of those that comes along once in a lifetime -- IF you are extremely lucky. My camera battery had come to the end of its tether, but Scott and Christy 's was still alive -- and I am so grateful they caught these moments of splendour!

ABOUT Scott and Christy:

Who? Scott & Christy are two Deaf Canadians with a mission: to experience the beauty and wonder of Africa and Asia and to learn the cultures and signed languages of various Deaf communities along the way.

Where? Canada eh!

Why? Because they are both an inspiration!

What? A pleasure and privilege to have in the group

Tattoos? None -- that can be signed...

Read more about their amazing travels and see their stunning photographs here

More stunning desert scenes in Northern Kenya

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A few impressions of the last three weeks (if possible, please go to the bottom and scroll up -- once again they are in reverse order!)

and before too long, the desert again

Outside Marsebit -- the volcanic crater by the same name

David and Graeme and I were in charge of dinner -- and this stall provided everything we needed for a delicious meal! (except the meat -- but that's another story!)

And simply because there was nowhere where we could put up our tents that was not in a puddle, we pirtched them in the backyard of Jeyjey's -- the local "InterContinental"...

But finally we reached Marsebit..... Yes -- the stronghold of El Jabaab in Northern Kenya (the Somalian wing of El Qaida). Again our guardian angels were with us -- as, the day after we left, a man was shot and killed by bandits right in this road.

But the road did not get better after. On the contrary...

then getting a reward from your lady love!

Nothing as satisfying as ... being covered in mud

So that everyone else could through as well

And once the stuck truck was released, we came after and filled the trenches

and then filled the holes with rocks. And more rocks

and they dug and dug and dug...

Another casualty of impatience -- and the poor passengers were stranded for days without food, water or shelter

Somehow the picture would not be complete without a few locals carrying guns! We don't even look twice -- and never for a moment felt unsafe. And yet -- only a few hours later, after we had left, a truck driver and his two passengers were killed by bandits right here. Perhaps by this self same man whose truck we helped pull out?

Quite a different experience -- the mezungus (white people) worked and the black people stood around and watched

Every trans traveller gets a couple of condoms in their first aid kit. One could make a list of all its possible uses, such as... protecting a cut toe when building roads ...

Orm is in his element! Give the man knee deep mud, a shovel and a smile and he is as happy as ... well, you know what I am talking about!

And it is obviously not going to be a stroll in the park

We decide we cannot stay here until, some day, the Kenyan Roadworks are going to send someone to come help. Mark discusses with the first truck in the line what has to be done to get him out of there

A very muddy camel

From time to time we had visitors... These camels we were very pleased to see as they had been on a truck, stuck in the mud, and the truck was precariously leaning over the last time we saw it and the camels had not looked comfortable. But here they are and looking muddy, but healthy and unhurt

Not a single one of the trucks we met on the road had a shovel! So our five shovels did overtime!

mmmm never trust a man who rubs his eye while playing cards...

Ignacio and Ben preparing a feast over the fire, in the rain

There is something very special about playing cards under the tarp while it rains ...

then the sun breaks through for a short while

Just when we think the road has dried out enough for us to try to find a way through, more clouds come racing from the distant horizon to come empty themselves out above our heads...

And the bush in Africa blossoms after the rain!

Thank goodness -- and Mark's foresight, we had enough provisions to cook excellent meals while we were stuck

and every hour brings more trucks

Our habitat for the duration of the road works...

...after the storm

Fortunately our tents (we stayed here for several nights) were on the other side of the road; this side became a raging river during the night when the rain poured down

Stuck in the mud, but life goes on as it should; a man washes his hands and feet, his face and his ears in a puddle of water next to the road so that he may kneel towards the east and say his prayers

...and then we get around the next bend... More than 60 trucks ended up here, and us amongst them. Some had been stuck for days already. The saddest part is that many of these trucks are transporting live animals.

Mark gets through the first stretch...

One of many many casualties of the deep muddy roads and impatience. Ironically, this truck was transporting water tanks to the drought areas

The advantage of not having a vehicle is that you don't get stuck in the mud. But -- how do they stay so beautiful and clean??

we walked and walked...

And it only got worse

And then we hit the mud...

The men here are as colourful as the women

Even though the green is fast coming through, the evidence of a very severe drought of five years is starkly visible

The people -- and in particular the women in Northern Kenya, ALL wear traditional dress and it is stunning! The bead 'collars' they wear as well as the beaded head gear they all have on their heads, are works of art that I have not seen anywhere else. But -- no pictures allowed (so much so that I have not seen this specific style photographically recorded anywhere!) so a few sneak pics from a fast moving truck were all I could manage!

The first signs that there has been rain ... lots and lots of rain

Toilet stops give opportunity to see the beautiful effects of the first rains in five years up close

and still looks good...

As we continue to head north, the road is no longer sealed, ---- but it still looks good...

Some of the last Masai huts we saw in Northern Kenya -- wood, mud, grass and plastic -- the building materials of Africa

One moment everything is green, the next it is desert --- that is African scenery for you...

Majestic mountains, more beautiful clouds

If you ever wondered where those trousers you donated to your favourite charity ended up...

So far the road looks good...

Incredibly blue skies and ever-changing beautiful cloud formations

After five years of drought, it doesn't take much to get the earth to show its appreciation of the first rains

Market day is always a colourful affair

Mount Kenya in the distance